A lot of metalsmiths use abrasive nylon pads (3MScotchbrite or Norton) to create a scratch or satin finish on their metalwork. The abrasive nylon is sold in all sorts of forms, from household to industrial use. I've bought the prepared buffs, but find them to be rather expensive and short-lived. Once they are used up, all I can do is throw them out. I can't re-use the mounting shaft.
So I decided to improvise my own, with re-usable fixtures and abrasive nylon pads.
*safety note: These pads are very gentle when handheld, but they are NASTY once they start spinning on a rotary tool. Those suckers cut! So use all of the recommended safety precautions for your tools, including good eye protection. Remember that gloves are not usually recommended for use with rotary machines because of the potential for being caught in the tool.
The pads will grab on to sharp edges, pull in your piece, and throw it violently around the workshop- potentially injuring you or someone else. Take all of the standard precautions that are recommended to avoid being sucked into and injured by your machine.
Also, research the recommended respiratory protection. All of that abrasive and nylon is getting thrown out into the air into your workspace and your lungs.
Here is the worn out buff next to a spindle adaptor.
I cut out the replacement pieces.
I'm working with two different abrasive grades. The grey is softer than the red.
Here are 4 of my improvised buffs lined up, with the new ones in front.
The ones in front are set up for my buffing unit. The ones in back are set up for my pneumatic tool. The red one in back shows quite a bit of wear.
I use the red buffs on steel and non-ferrous metals. The gray pads are more effective on non-ferrous metals. They don't make much impact on steel.
We use the reloadable style where I work. We do stainless steel fabrication...anyways we don't even bother to cut them into squares. Just fold them up and punch the hole and use it. Just be carefull of the folds, they will grab the piece as well. Of course we do large boxes so there is no grabbing of the parts.
ReplyDeleteI usually cut the corners off as I find that the the marks left by the corners are too deep on silver. This also helps keep it from grabbing the piece.
ReplyDeleteDIY - it's Way better BYGO free.
ReplyDelete:0]
Very cool conversion!
ReplyDeleteI'm actually being really picky right now about finding a something that provides me with a certain type of satin finish to apply to a few pieces I'm working on. None of what I have gives me quite what I want--I'm going to have to try this...